At the game reserve, we were only a couple of hundred kilometres from the Zulu battlefields so that was our next stop.

Like most of us I’d seen the film Zulu and was really excited about visiting Rorke’s Drift and quite interested in visiting Isandlwana, the site of the slaughter of around 1300 British soldiers  a few hours before the defence of Rorke’s Drift.

And Rorke’s Drift was great, totally fascinating hearing how 139 people (only 18 of them Welsh despite the film depicting the lusty singing of ‘Men of Harlech) defended the hospital and mission station against 4,000 Zulu. 11 of our soldiers received the Victoria Cross – still the most ever awarded in one battle – and our guide, actually British by birth but who had lived with the Zulu for nearly all his life, was brilliant in painting a picture of the individual acts  of heroism.

But if Rorke’s Drift was fascinating, the story of Isandlwana was  utterly spellbinding.  I had heard of what had happened in history at school but when you arrive there, on what looks like a vast East African plain surrounded by mountains (although in reality the plain itself has numerous hills, ridges and valleys that were to become crucial in battle) it takes your breath away.

There is an eerie silence about Isandlwana, the scenery occasionally punctuated by piles of stones painted brilliant white which signify the locations of where the British soldiers fell.

The guide had a wonderful pace of delivery, explaining in great detail the layout of the battlefield and how the Zulu army (25,000 strong) were discovered by a British scouting party sitting in total and complete silence  waiting for the new moon.

But it was the way in which he would suddenly lapse into shouting in Zulu, banging his shield and walking towards us, explaining in graphic detail how the Zulu killed their enemies – no prisoners, just disembowelling to release the spirit and the licking of the blood-soaked spear after each kill.

Never have I been so completely engrossed in the telling of a story -nearly two hours which flew by and left so many of us in tears as you heard how the battle went, the defeat for the British, the glory for the Zulu and a total respect from both sides for the bravery of the enemy.

I know that South Africa is along way away but, if you ever go, don’t miss Isandlwana and Rorke’s Drift – I defy anyone not be moved and captivated by the experience.

Whilst I had done a one day safari near Cape Town, the big one was always going to be in a game reserve with the wonderful name of Hluhluwe Omfalozi about 300 kilometres north of Durban, not too far away from the borders with Mozambique and Swaziland.

We stayed in small cottages in the centre of the reserve, the oldest in the whole of Africa and the best place to see my old friends, the rhinos! The accommodation was functional rather than luxurious but the reserve itself was wonderful – even the body of a dead elephant being eaten by hyenas which was somehow morbidly fascinating. We saw loads of rhino (again), giraffe, zebra, buffalo, wildebeest, monkeys, baboons (some are bloody enormous!) and, thankfully, no snakes although the owner of the reserve seemed to take great delight in telling us that there were loads around!

The loads of snakes apparently included a python which had been seen the week before (horribly close to the cottage I was staying in!) swallowing a baby deer. So what do you do when you see a python swallowing a deer – you obviously kick it to see if it will cough up the deer. By this time, I was totally incredulous talking to this bloke and just kept saying ‘you kicked a python!’

Those of you who know me well will know how much I really do not like snakes and wandering round kicking pythons does not appear anywhere near the top of my list of things I have to do in my life but, by all accounts, it worked, and the python coughed up the deer although the poor thing was nearly dead through suffocation.

Just another one of those things that happens in Africa!

A big thank you to John for his update (even the bit about me adopting an elephant calf) and here goes with the last week.

After our few days in fabulous Cape Town, we moved on to the warm East Coast (over 25 degrees even in winter!!!!)  and the Indian Ocean city of Durban.  For the one and only time we abandoned the bus – it was going to be a three day journey (nearly 2,000 kilometres) and the lure of an internal flight which took two hours and cost about £60 won the day!  So off we went (the bus driver unfortunately had to drive the bus by himself and pick us up a few days later)

Durban itself was fascinating – one of the great sea ports of the world, home to a large part of South Africa’s Asian population and with a beach that stretches for miles.  As the South Africans say, Durban for me had the ‘vibe’.  The stadium was amazing (although I didn’t actually go to to the Spain v Germany semi final), the markets were what I’ve always presumed they’re like in places like Mumbai – hot, hustling, loud, chaotic – but the one great memory of Durban will always be drums.

Walking along the beach, a few of us came across an African band playing drums in front of a set of steps which, in total, must have had nearly 100 drums ready for anyone to join in the rhythm.  It was fantastic – football fans from all around the world banging away on these drums whilst one of the main band tried to give us a crash course in how to play them and people danced around us!

As with a lot of these things, it’s really hard to convey the the feeling but take my word for it, it was amazing.

Mark says hi – again he has been unable to access the internet and has asked me to blog for him so here goes…… he has just arrived in Johannesburg this morning and weather is nice and cool.

He is about to endeavour to source a ticket for tommorrow night’s match. He was offered one for a thousand pounds but said no as his pre-holiday budget allocation was for £49.98 (I know where the pound sign is !!!!!) so he is still looking and still hopeful.

He went onto amazing adventures recently and has lots to tell you all but here is a brief account of what he has done…..

Mark on safari..

He said it was incredible to see animals up close and at one point they came across an elephant which was being eaten by a pack of hyenas. When they saw Mark they all ran off (wonder why?) .  The guide pointed out that the elephant’s calf was now being looked after by another member of the herd at which point Mark named her Mary and promptly started adoption proceedings and will bring her home when he returns next week.

Mark on the battlefields……….

Mark spent two days being shown around the battlefields where many of the Zulu Wars took place and also the famous battle of Rorke’s Drift( sorry not sure on spelling !!!). All very emotional time and a lot of people overcome with tears. He will of course fill you in on more detail.

He hopes to be online in the next day or two and wishes everybody well but is still having the most wonderful time.

For and on behalf of the wonderful knapstar…..john (irish)

Amazing weekend of matches.   Managed to watch the Holland v Brazil match in a pub full of English, Dutch and Brazilian fans – lively atmosphere, nearly all the English shouting for Holland, fantastic result.  The Brazilians got found out – some great skills but lacking in discipline (Maicon and Dani Alves – that means you two!!).

As for Uruguay v Ghana – what can you say?  The drama of that last minute penalty miss, the massive disappointment in the bars – you really needed to be here to believe it.  As I said in an earlier post, the overall impression here  is that the World Cup is not just for South Africa, it is for Africa and we now have a continent in mourning. 

And then yesterday’s games.  More penalty drama in the Spain v Paraguay game (I actually thought Spain were a bit lucky in the end) but the game of the World Cup so far has to be Germany v Argentina.  As much as it hurts me to say it, Germany were superb with Schweinsteiger playing a fantastic game.  Fascinating though – you could say the same about Mueller, Klose, Lahm, Mertesacker, Podolski – the list goes on and on for a country that always gets it right in tournaments.

For me, it was 250 pounds well spent (still haven’t found the pound sign on the keyboard!!!).  Surprisingly there were about 1,000 England fans at the match, every one shouting for Germany (how wonderful was it to see the cheating Maradona cry at the end?).  The atmosphere was good before the match and electric after Mueller scored in the third minute – one of the best matches I have ever been to.

I was watching the equivalent of Sky Sports this morning and they had their panel of experts discussing who will win now.  Funnily enough, the panel comprises  loads of players we know in England – Gary Mabbutt, John Barnes, Terry Paine(!!!), Daniel Amokachi and some rather bizarre characters such as the ex-Ireland manager, Eoin Hand.  Anyway, out of the eight experts, three predicted Spain to win, three went for Germany and two for Uruguay although, personally, I think Uruguay without Suarez will be nowhere near as good as they have been. 

Personally, I don’t actually mind – loving the football, the atmosphere, the people.  South Africa is very proud (and rightly so) of the World Cup and how it’s gone so far despite all the predictions of not being ready in time, violence etc. 

One week to go – let’s hope that the next four matches (including the 3rd/4th play off) are as great as the last four.

All the best.

After the shambles of Bloemfontein, we are now in the town that is the ostrich capital of the world (allegedly) – it’s like sheep in Wales! 

But to the match.  To say we were all gutted would be to put it very mildly.  Everybody here seems to have their pet villain – mine is Glenn Johnson (still forgets he’s a defender) closely followed by Gareth Barry.  We were shit and even the Germans we spoke to later were surprised at how appalling our defence were.  The Lampard ‘non-goal’ may have made a difference for a while but we were outplayed.

Foe me the only player who acquitted himself well here was Ashley Cole but we needed 10 more like him.  And the worst thing was the players walking off without acknowledging the fans – and there were thousands of us there, at least five times more than the Germans.  Talk about lack of respect!

Some of our group have gone home but most have stayed for the last two weeks.  As I said, we are currently in Outdshoorn, a wonderful colonial backwater which thrived in the glory days of ostrich feathers  and has retained much of it’s old Victorian feel.  Off to Cape Town tomorrow (via a wineyard where they specialise in port) and then a few days in Cape Town – hoping to get tickets for the Germany v Argentina match on Saturday afternoon.

Then there’s a group of us flying to Durban for a few days before rejoining the bus for a tour of the old battlefields and three days staying in a game reserve which will be the highlight of our time here.

Of course I’m pissed off about the footbal – particularly abut the lame manner in which we capitulated – but South Africa is still a great country and we’re all supporting Ghana now.  For Africa to provide the champions would be a dream come true for the whole continent – in all fairness though, I think it will be Argentina.

Should be able to be in contact a bit more once in Cape Town – keep the comments coming – I’m off to watch Paraguay v Japan in a colonial garden now! All the best

Sorry about the delay again folks but accesing the internet can be a bit of a problem when 80% of the country is very remote. I went to 5 internet cafes today to post (they all close early on Saturdays) and have just managed to persuade the Manager of the hotel where I’m staying to use his PC! – yet another example of how hospitable the South Africans are.

A lot of you will have heard from me about the gut-wrenching Slovenia game by text – how nerve-wracking was that but celebrations afterwards were long, well-earned and robust! Personally I thought Cole was brilliant but Terry and Gerard were also very good. Unbelievably for me – the biggest Rooney fan ever- I still think he looks a bit off the pace although the general consensus is that he will come good against Germany. I’m not so sure but it’s the type of match on which he thrives.

We couldn’t get any accommodation in Bloemfontein for tomorrow night so we’re back in Kimberley (about 100 miles away) where we were about 10 days ago – slightly rural, very Afrikaaner and brilliant. We did however manage to get tickets last night for Switzerland v Honduras – not much of a match on paper but with wonderful fans. It’s never ceased to amaze me that the Swiss, who are deemed to be quiet and reserved, are such fantastic fans – dressed as cowherds and friesian cows with the obligatory cow bells and the constant chant of Hop Schweiz, they are always one of the highlights of any tournament. What was an even bigger surprise were the Hondurans – hard looking buggers who sang their hearts out and were totally 100% passion from beginning to end. Believe me, you wouldn’t want to cross them but they were really friendly and wanted to shake everyone’s hands. I wore a South Africa shirt to the match but when one group found out I was from England they went berserk – in a warm and friendly way thank Christ!

But the best thing about the match was the fans. We managed to get cheap South African tickets – 13 pounds for four rows from the front – and so sat amongst most of the local fans. If you think vuvuzelas are loud on telly, try sitting there – the noise was unbelievable. And then the dancing started – 300-4oo people dancing to South African dances in total unison all over the ground – at one point we were all dancing and chanting ( I dont know what as my Xhosa is a bit limited). It was wonderful and I will never forget it.

Did a tour of Kimberley today – actually really interesting – Big Hole, diamonds, De Beers, Boer War etc. – it really is a very pleasant place, not riveting but somewhere that you enjoy and relax – it’s probably an age thing but I really like it!

And so to tomorrow!!! The whole of South Africa is riveted by three of the second round matches, England v Germany, Argentina v Mexico and Portugal v Spain – shoud be good stuff and I do genuinely think we will win and then we will go back to the wonderful city of Cape Town for the quarters – in fact we have already decided that we’re going back to Cape Town whatever happens – after all, it’s only 900 kilometres away.

And that’s about it folks from your touring South African correspondent. Rave for England on Sunday – you will never have seen support like it. Send texts, post comments (although I might take a couple of days to get back).

Speak soon, Mark

Sorry about the delay folks – it’s been a nightmare finding a PC and even more the time.  We are talking full on here – most days we get up by 6.30 at the latest, visit somewhere (I’m actually missing today’s School Visit to write this) and then travel.  Done 2,000 km in the first week!

Obviously everything not helped by the bizarre weather here.  From beautiful warm days and chilly nights initially  to heavy snow (roads have been closed it’s that bad!) and torrential rain.  John Toal posted for me the other evening (it wasn’t me going all third person!!) as we couldn’t get to our hotel as the road had been washed away leading to our hotel and so we had to find another one, leaving no time to update the blog!  By the way, for those of you who were aware that we had a certain concern about camping, that was the hotel /site that we couldn’t reach so the snakes missed out! 

But S0uth Africa is still great – love the food (definitely plays to the carnivores), beer and cider is very cheap (1.50 per pint!!) and the people continue to be very friendly.  We spent a couple of nights in Kimberley – very different to Soweto, very Boer / Afrikaaner tradition – and we had a very lively time – a real party atmosphere. Reminded me a bit of Australia – if you like beer and sport then you’re OK.  We met some great blokes and now have an open invitation to go and stay with them any time.

I haven’t said much about the football on the blog but the general view is that Germany and Argentina look the best teams (with Paraguay also looking very good against Italy).  People are very down after the Bafana Bafana match against Uruguay on Wednesday and the Mexicans beating France last night (I thought the French were shit!) but there is still a tremendous celebratory atmosphere everywhere you go – particularly here in Cape Town.

The appearance of Cape Town is breathtaking – I honestly stood and stared at Table Mountain for about 5 minutes it was so wonderful.  Went to Robben Island yesterday which is about 10km off the coast and was where Nelson Mandela was imprisoned and the view of Cape Town from the island is marvellous.  But obviously it’s the island itself which is so memorable- you see the cell where he was imprisoned, the place where he ate, the quarry he worked in – it really is all very moving and, once again like Soweto, it helped me understand South Africa so much more.

We had the normal media onslaught (did an interveiw with Time magazine, The Guardian (I think) and the South African version of Panorama) but, with this visist, I could understand their interest.

Tonight’s it’s the Algeria game and I’m not feeling as confident as I should be but hopefully it will be OK.  There are surprisingly a lot of Algerian fans around in Cape Town but, having said that, there were fans from everywhere yesterday in the harbour area – Ghana, Chile, Holland, Germany, Argentina, South Korea but most of all there was England. 

The English fans are very popular in South Africa because we sing a lot and spent loads of money on beer.  Also, English fans, despite the old reputation, are very friendly and so many of the South Africans have commented on it – they love the fact that we will just start talking to people and shaking their hands – it leads to an atmosphere that is at the same time both relaxed and exciting.

Anyay, fingers crossed for tonight.  I should be able to post on Sunday but we’re staying in a game reserve so I  hope there’s an  internet link.  In the meantime, thanks to everyone again for all the comments - both on here and by text – keep them coming!

All the best, Mark

Just a quick note from Mark to let you all know that he will be in touch over the next few days as the road he was travelling on has been washed away and fortunatly for him and his new found chums they were not on it at the time. !!!!!!!.

He is now by the pool in the travel lodge 15* hotel enjoying his holiday and looking at property to purchase with a view to moving so he can be near his hero Nelson Mandela, or Nelle to his friends. He is having a ball which by all accounts is far better than the one they have been playing with during the tournament!!!!!. He is safe and well. Bye for now.

I’ve had some posts, emails and tests asking whether I had been on TV. 

Let me tell you – it’s almost impossible not to be filmed.  Because of the way in which we are travelling – 60 fans driving around South Africa in a big bus that says London Enfgland Fans all down the side – we are attracting a lot of attention.  I’ve been interviewed so far by Sky, BBC, Channel 4 (where we also did a lot of singing!!) as well as the South African Broadcasting Corporation who seem to follow us everywhere.

At first it was all very exciting but actually when you get people filming you drinking, eating and talking you begin to get a bit pissed off although it’s beginning to calmdown a bit now.

RUSTENBURG

England’s first match was played in Rustenburg – c. 100 km to the north of Johannesburg and very different.  This is real Afrikaaner country (we watched South Africa annihilate France at rugby in a pub before the match) and you could feel the pride. 

Actually the pride in South Africa for has been the most overwhelming feature so far.  All South Africans love their country and want to tell you about it and want you to love it too – it’s quite overwhelming and much more intense than I expected.

The least said about the game the better.  My feelings were that USA were shit and we were marginally better than shit.  That said, everyone realised that it is a tournament and there is a widespread expectation amongst fanes hear that we will beat Algeria and Slovenia to qualify and hopefully win the group. 

Having watched the Germans last night we really don’t want to play them in the last 16 which we would do if they won their group and we came second in ours.

One interesting point about the USA fans – they were  by and large great, totally overwhelmed by the fans from all over the world and, for once, appreciative that ’soccer’ is genuinely a global sport.  I spoke to three lads from Wyoming who had never been out of the US before and are in South Africa for three weeks – you can tell already that being here will change their lives.

Lots of you started looking at this already (thanks for all your comments and emails) so I’ll make sure I’ve got some more stuff up by the end of the day.

In the meantime, there were a couple of questions about the links. The two in Spanish (including that fantastic calendar – many thanks to Richard Boon and Barrie Jackson for sending it to me) can be translated by clicking in the top right corner of the graphic.

As to the ‘filly-inny’ bit, there isn’t one so, sorry folks, you’ll have to revert to the wallchart in your kitchen/bedroom/workplace/ study (delete as appropriate). In all fairness, the FIFA website (link 1) is so up-to-date that it’s worth following that.

More to come later – featuring school visits, maximum security prisons, Radio 5 Live and Soweto pubs. Watch this space!

Just in case you don’t know me, I’m a life long Hereford United and England fan – hence the web name – and, since I took the decision nearly three years ago that, whatever happened, I would go to South Africa for the tournament (there was never any fear we wouldn’t qualify!!!), the day of travel has always seemed so far away. Now it’s tantalisingly close.

So many mates have mentioned running a blog so I’ve taken the plunge and this is it. I’ll try not to muck it all up but my intention is to try and post on here as many days as possible and, if you feel sufficiently moved, it would be great to get your comments back!

I leave on Thursday morning from Heathrow and, having stopped off briefly in Amsterdam and Nairobi, arrive that night in Johannesburg.

I must admit to not knowing what to expect. I’ve had a lot of mates who have been to South Africa, some on cricket and rugby tours, and everyone loves it. You get the feeling though that, just because of the pure size of the tournament, this is going to be a hell of a lot bigger – 32 teams and their supporters travelling around (rumours at the moment are that England, USA and Mexico will have the most fans, all in excess of 20,000) experiencing the best of what South Africa has to offer.

I can’t wait!